Definitely Interested in Punishment Whip
posted by: Herb Jameson
posted on: Wed, 02 Apr 2008 00:21:38 -0000
In reply to (ex) Slave O's post in the punishment, type,
severity thread:
(ex) Slave O' wrote:
>"The requirement was that they hurt with a painful sting (fast
>and thin) without undue bruising (light), have minimal wrap
>around and a powerful swish with only a flick of a Ladies
>wrist. They measure approx 940 mm and are slightly similar to a
>fishing rod tip.
>"While they are not available commercially, I would be happy
>to describe the making of these whips in this forum if there is
>interest."
I would be interested, and I suspect virtually everyone on the
list, would be very interested in the details of how to make
these whips.
Herb
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Replies
Posted by: "O" | link | edited and published April 9, 2008 12:58 PM
Thank-you for the interest in punishment whips. To say that they
are "made" is only partly true, as they are really a
modification of a type of equestrian whip, sometimes referred to
as a schooling whip.
From an equestrian store, purchase a supple whip about 1 metre
long, the model that does not have a leather slapper affixed to
the tip, but a nylon tip, similar to a boot lace. It should be
whippy like a light fishing rod tip, with a nice handle.
These whips have a thin fibreglass tapered core, and the
sheathing is a fine woven material, the weave of which continues
past the underlying fibreglass tip about 150mm - 200mm and is
designed to sting.
My favourite is English made, and has a spiral wound leather
handle with steel ferrules, but cheaper versions are fine.
Modification: With a sharp knife, sever the nylon weave so that
it extends only about 6mm past the fibreglass tip. (Now is the
time to shorten the length of the whip slightly if desired.....
just pull the weave towards the handle a few millimetres before
cutting the shaft to length, so that when repositioned, the
weave extends just past the tip).
Using a flame source, melt the protruding nylon weave just
enough to prevent it unravelling.(this is best done using a bowl
of water to wet the fingers, and quickly bringing the melted end
to a point). Don't worry if the tip is not perfect at this
stage, it can be shaped to a rounded tip later.
For the next stage, devise a way of temporarily holding the whip
vertical, handle at the bottom (I use a small fruit tin weighted
with some small stones as the holder).
Take some epoxy resin (such as standard two part araldite) and
after mixing the adhesive and hardener together, apply to the
nylon covered shaft in a thin layer with the fingers, working
towards the tip. It should look like it has just been varnished.
Leave to harden standing vertical.
(I found 5 minute araldite set too quick, resulting in a poor
job. If not using gloves, methylated spirits works as a solvent
to clean off hands).
When hardened, use about #400 grade wet and dry sandpaper to
give the whip shaft a light sanding.... also the tip can now be
rounded, and then repeat the epoxy resin treatment 2 or 3 (or
even 4 or 5 times times if you like a heavy whip), until you are
happy with a smooth glossy finish. The colour of the resin is
clear, so the shaft of the whip will retain it's original
colour.
By modifying equestrian whips in this way, you avoid the wrap
around of the original whip, and the coating gives an extremely
hard, but flexible surface eliminating the risk of nylon
impregnation into the skin under heavy impact, and minimising
wrap around.
In use, these are powerful whips that sting like hell, but don't
bruise easily. As a friend said "it's all in the flick of the
wrist"
Good luck, "O"